![]() ![]() This not only leaves valuable horsepower & torque hidden inside your vehicle, but it also makes for a mediocre driving experience. Here is the kicker with #2, you might have liked how your first truck handled with the Edge, but you may not like how your 2nd one handles with it, due to having different strategies.The SCT 7015 X4 Power Flash Programmer provides your 1999-2016 Ford 7.3L/6.0L/6.4L/6.7L Powerstroke with pre-loaded, dyno-proven power! From the factory, your vehicles computer is calibrated for the masses, designed with the average driver in mind, not the performance enthusiast. Since the programming is one size fits all, you may or may not like how the truck responds to the tuning depending on the strategy that your truck has. That it uses increased cylinder pressure to increase hp/tq output and/or 2. That means the possibility of a couple of things happening. Mainly that since it has tunes that are designed to fit for everyone, it doesn't account for different fueling strategies that custom tuning would. ![]() Now, if you had something like the Evolution, that presents it's own set of issues. If you can change the settings while driving you have a module. I believe it was model before the Evolution.The biggest difference between the two is if you can change power settings while still driving. The truck ran great and there was a noticebale increase in fuel economy. I could change 0-5 programs but only used 1 (economy) and 2 (tow). It was mounted on the pilliar and had a read out for EGT, RPM, Boost and something else. Not sure the difference between a module or tuner. The other route is the a-pillar pod with analog gauges. You can't get FP, or EGT on any OBD II gauge, but with the EDGE or the Dashdaq you can add them too it so you still will just have the one gauge. You can get most of these with just a OBD II gauge (like the dashdaq, or EDGE CTS). Really need the minimum of EOT, ECT, Fuel Pressure (if leaving stock), If tunning then I would add EGT, and Tranny. Wheather or not you are going to leave the truck stock. So to delete the EGR cooler is only fixing the result of a problem, not the actual problem. Thus the EGR cooler is superheated by the exhaust (having no coolant to cool it) and fails. It's the Oil cooler getting pluged up (on the coolant side with sand/silicate dropout), and causing little to no flow to the EGR cooler. The real problem in the EGR system is not the cooler itself. When/if you do change your EGR cooler you need to change the oil cooler at the same time, as that is what Tex was talking about symptom fix and not a problem fix. The BPD ones have very little to No failuers. What I actualy recomend is a Bullet proff diesel EGR cooler (if yours was to ever fail). Mainly due to some recent discoveries form some of the techs (thanks cheezit). I don't really recomend going that route anymore. It's just not going to happen, or more likely won't anyways.Īs far as the EGR delete goes. The companies making these things have made a living "clamming" MGP gains. More than likely that won't happen, and you will end up dissapointed. I agree with Tex! Don't buy a tunner with the object being MPG increase. ![]()
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